Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.

This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've seen people hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the World

So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines with views of and within Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay greener and more diverse. These spaces protect land from construction by establishing permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Across the City

The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make good, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the juice," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches

A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a barrier on

Ricardo Lloyd
Ricardo Lloyd

A passionate gamer and tech writer with over a decade of experience in the gaming industry, specializing in indie games and console reviews.